Nepal has troubles, but we have none...

Plan A (= travelling overland from India to Nepal) did not work out so we arrived by plane, very late at night into a country with severe fuel rationing.  Fortunately the delightful nunnery whose Guest House we are staying in had organised a driver and a happy sign saying KATE in very big letters.  A sweet nun opened the huge iron gate for us and found us our room.

motorbikes waiting after a rumour of some fuel

Now a few days later, we are their only guests.  Tourism is vastly down (it should be high season) and the streets are very quiet because no fuel is crossing the India-Nepal border for reasons that neither side can feel very proud of....and no cooking gas either.  

The government has hardly released any of the money earmarked for the earthquake damage, so there are still many stories of real hardship, especially outside Kathmandu.   

The nunnery is about 5 minutes walk from the stupa.  (This comes with sound-effects day and night) Also next to an orphanage from where we hear the sweetest songs)

David settled on "the best bed ever" i.e. hard

Our days begin at 6 and we are out at the stupa well before 7, doing kora with an enormous number of Tibetans.

We first wander past a row of monks

row of blind people, perhaps 20 on a good day

Then the row of blind people

(the Tibetans are very good with their 'social services', offering them money as they pass)  Following their example, we are getting a bit better too.  

Then we are pretty much into the river of people with some very bent but determined old ladies setting a stiff pace.  You need to be careful not to trip over someone prostrating, sometimes sideways to the flow.  All in all, you need to keep your wits about you.  

Back for breakfast, work, then picnic lunch in our room which has a little kitchen. 

More work, sleep, read, walk....

6pm out for another 7 rounds of kora, then out to supper somewhere. 

bed by 9.30...

The wonderful Boudha stupa was damaged

and the restoration-so-far has involved further demolition.  I was so disappointed that David couldn't see it as it has been (and I'm sure will be again) but we were very lucky to arrive on the day that serious rebuilding started - see http://dspieg-is-not-at-home.blogspot.in

Stupa as I last saw it

and now... no eyes, no prayer flags, some rubble, but actually
it still has a real 'muscular' presence